Vieques diving and snorkeling

An island that stayed wild

Vieques is the larger of Puerto Rico’s two inhabited eastern islands, a few miles off the east coast of the mainland. For decades, much of the island was used by the US Navy. When the Navy left in 2003, large parts of that land became the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. The result is an island with long stretches of undeveloped coastline, empty beaches and very little building along the shore.

Some refuge areas remain closed while former range land is cleaned up, so follow the signs and only go where access is allowed. The open parts of the refuge include some of the island’s most beautiful beaches.

What the diving is like

Vieques sees far fewer divers than the main island, and the diving is relaxed. Reefs along the south and west coasts have coral heads, sponges and sea fans, with reef fish, rays, lobster and turtles. Seagrass beds in the bays are feeding grounds for green turtles and occasionally manatees. Depths are mostly moderate, so Vieques suits divers of every level, and snorkelers can reach good reef from several beaches.

There are only a few dive operators on the island, so book ahead and expect small groups. Some operators from the main island also run trips to the reefs off Vieques.

Mosquito Bay after dark

Mosquito Bay, on the south coast near Esperanza, is one of Puerto Rico’s three bioluminescent bays and is known as one of the brightest in the world. Microscopic organisms in the water light up when they are disturbed, so every paddle stroke and fish leaves a blue-green glow. Swimming in the bay is not allowed, to protect it; tours go out by kayak or electric boat. Visit on a night near the new moon for the darkest skies and the best show.

Getting to Vieques

Ferries to Vieques leave from the terminal in Ceiba on the east coast, the same terminal that serves Culebra, and arrive at Isabel Segunda on the north side of the island. As with Culebra, ferries can be busy at weekends and holidays, so buy tickets early. Small planes fly from San Juan and Ceiba. On the island you will need a car or jeep to get between Isabel Segunda, Esperanza and the beaches; book it in advance.

Snorkeling between dives

Vieques rewards a snorkel set. Several beaches inside the refuge and around Esperanza have rocky points and patches of reef within a short swim, and the calm bays on the south coast are good on most days. Go with a buddy, check the conditions and keep to the open, signed areas.

Island time

Vieques moves at its own pace. Wild horses wander the roads and beaches, restaurants keep short hours and much of the coast has no buildings at all. Build some slack into your plans, carry water and sun protection on beach days, and expect a quieter island than the main island’s resort areas.

Planning a Vieques dive trip

• Base yourself in Esperanza for the south-coast reefs and Mosquito Bay, or Isabel Segunda for the ferry.
• Book dives and bay tours before you travel; the island has limited capacity.
• Bring snorkel gear for days between dives. Many beaches have reef within reach.
• Plan surface time before flying out (see the flying after diving guidance).

For a complete east-coast trip, combine Vieques with Culebra and a day on Fajardo’s cays. See the Puerto Rico dive sites overview and the gear checklist for packing.